Wednesday, October 3, 2012

Big Season at Las Tortugas

One of my favorite parts of my job running SEEtheWILD is the opportunity to bring a group of Portland, Oregon residents to participate in a volunteer vacation every spring with the leatherback sea turtles. As our group arrived to our hotel the first night, the inevitable question was asked, “How many turtles do you think we’ll see?”

As an optimist, I always want to answer that question with a big number but past experience has taught me that its better to set lower expectations. I hedged my bets and said that we should see several, knowing that so far this season, there have been a lot. A group that we organized in late March had 14 turtles their first night and even had the opportunity to see on one the beach in the morning, a rare chance to take a photograph.

I tried to contain my excitement when we got to the turtle station and I learned that there were 3 times as many nests in March of this year, compared to last year. My optimism was confirmed though shortly after we got out to beach for our 11 am patrol with the local researchers. It took all of 15 minutes to find our first leatherback, just a few hundred meters up the beach. It had already laid its eggs but our group was able to help measure the turtle and relocate her eggs to a hatchery, where they are protected until they hatch in two months.

The second turtle we saw was practically waiting for us in front of the hatchery, though another group of researchers were already working with her. Once we created the new nest, we were alerted that a third turtle that had just come up down the beach. On the way, we came across yet another turtle that had come ashore but decided not to nest. As we arrived at the third turtle, we realized she had just started to drop her eggs.
(credit: Neil Osborne)
As the researcher situated a bag to catch the eggs, I jumped in to dig out the sand to create access for her and to collect the eggs that had already fallen and put them into the bag. By the time we were done with that turtle, our four hour patrol was just about finished and we still hadn’t walked our full section of beach. As we got back to the station, we learned that another turtle had laid its eggs just in front and a couple of our group stayed behind to dig it out and move it to the hatchery.

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Our group slept the second day as late as the boisterous howler monkeys, roosters, and rising heat allowed. Sharing the station with our group the first day was an enthusiastic group of Costa Rican students participating in an educational program of a US-based non-profit called Ecology Project International. Their energy helped to keep the normally quiet and laid back atmosphere of the research station lively with games and activities.

After lunch, the project biologist, Stamie Sklirou, gave our group an educational presentation about leatherbacks and other sea turtles of Costa Rica. She saved the best for last as she brought us over to a desk with a sheet draped over the top. As she lifted the sheet, we saw huddled in a dark corner of a sand-covered box the season’s first leatherback hatchling.

This tiny turtle had been found on the beach this morning and was being kept safe until nightfall, when it has a much better chance of surviving the gauntlet of crabs, birds, fish, and other animals that can easily swallow a hatchling in the bright daylight. This hatchling had the good fortune of being the one that the new volunteers were using to learn how to measure and collect information, so it was handled more than its brothers and sisters who made it safely to the water last night.

With the season off to a good start, though, it was just the first of thousands that will enter the warm water of the Caribbean, braving a gauntlet of fish, birds, plastic, and fishing gear.

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Our final night of turtle patrols started slowly. With the moon providing some light on the beach, we made a full pass of our section without seeing any turtles. About halfway through the shift, though, we saw the now familiar trail of dark sand heading up the beach that alerts us of a turtle’s presence.

I convinced the patrol leader to let me catch the eggs and somewhat patiently waited as she dug out the nest. Watching her back flippers alternate digging out the sand, I realized that her right flipper was shorter than the left. Once the turtle was done digging, I got the bag in place under the cloaca (where the eggs drop from). She kept her damaged flipper inside the hole, resting it on top of my hand while I held the bag.

It wasn’t until the leatherback was done laying and started to cover the nest that I realized just how damaged her flipper was. She tried to push down on the nest and would have crushed her eggs had my hand not been holding her back. The heavy scar tissue on the end of her flipper was very different from the soft outer edge of most leatherback back flippers. Normally the eggs would have been lower in the nest but the nest was not as wide as normal due to the shorter flipper, hence the risk of breaking the eggs.

After we pulled the eggs out of the nest to take to the hatchery, we inspected her for other damage and that’s when realized what a tough turtle this was. More than half of her front right flipper was missing, likely the result of a shark bite. Despite these challenged, this inspiring turtle made it back to the nesting beach and to lay an above average 99 eggs.

Its turtles like this one that give me optimism for the future of this species. She managed to migrate thousands of miles to reproduce, avoiding sharks, fishing gear, and other hazards. Hopefully some of her hatchlings will inherit that strength and make it back to this beach in a couple of decades.


Learn more about Costa Rica ecotourism here.