America’s Wildlife Laboratory: Yellowstone National Park

Wild animals in Yellowstone are not the shrinking violets of the natural world. They don’t shy away from long lines of cars and hordes of photographing tourists. The bison wander right down the middle of the road and the best spot to see wolves isn’t in the remote corners of the park, its right along the road in the Lamar Valley. In terms of the number of animals seen per day, few places in the world (outside of Africa) can match America’s first national park.

It didn’t take long to spot our first animal, just a few minutes after entering the West Entrance. Passing a meadow along the side of the road, a lone bison stood stock still in the far end near the forest. My daughter Karina and I grabbed our cameras and pulled over to take a couple of photos, elated that we had already spotted the enormous creature. A couple of miles later, we were treated to a small herd of elk foraging along a river.

In just a few short days of exploring this incredible place, it quickly became evident who was just arriving and who had been there a while. People just arriving would stop in the middle of the road, creating traffic jams to take a picture of an elk or bison that could easily be captured a mile up the road at a pull-out. As we waited for people to pull out the phones to upload pictures to Facebook, I spent my time drafting idealistic rules for the park requiring people to get out of their cars to earn the right to take a picture.

The Elusive Wolf

(credit: Natural Habitat Adventures)

My top priority was to look for wolves, though we were going at the worst time of the year for spotting the elusive canines. Early one morning we met up with Nathan Varley of local tour outfitter The Wild Side to look for wolves and other animals. We headed into the park before dawn to get a head start on the other wildlife watchers, heading to the famed Lamar Valley. Nathan was born to be a Yellowstone guide, having grown up in the park as a kid of park rangers. He started as a field biologist with the Gray Wolf Recovery Project in 1995, now recognized as one of the world’s most successful wildlife reintroduction programs.

The recovery of gray wolves in Yellowstone is a fascinating story. Once one of the widest ranging animals in the world, they now number fewer than 5,000 in the continental US and roughly 200,000 around the world (down from an estimated more than 2 million at one point). However, the few thousand now living in the continental US was the result of a monumental effort to bring back the wolf after decades of extermination.

In the early 90’s, more than 2 decades since a wolf had been spotted in the park, the US Fish & Wildlife Service announced a plan to bring gray wolves from Canada to release in Yellowstone. The opposition was swift and deep from ranchers afraid for the livestock and their allies in the government. Despite several lawsuits and bills intended to derail the program, the first wolves were released into the park in 1995. Now, the park has more than 300 resident wolves and hundreds more have moved out of the park, repopulating parts of Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Washington, and more recently my home state of Oregon.

The ecological impact of wolf recovery has been stunning according to Nathan. Few biologists predicted the widespread ripple effects of having these animals back in the ecosystem. Elk had been eating all of the trees growing along streams, increasing erosion and water temperature. Now that they are wary of the wolves, the trees growing along the streams in the park now grow, stabilizing the soil and providing shade that fish need.

With this incredible recovery, Fish and Wildlife is looking to take gray wolves off the Endangered Species List, despite the fact that their numbers have yet to recover across much of their former range despite their success in Yellowstone. While ranchers still strongly oppose wolf conservation, the numbers don’t lie. Wolf tourism to Yellowstone has been valued at more than $35 million per year, compared to under $100,000 in livestock predation by wolves (which has been reimbursed to ranchers). Click here to find out more and comment about this proposal.

While we didn’t see any wolves during our visit, Nathan showed us many other species including pronghorn, mule deer, bighorn sheep, and of course lots of bison. The recovery of bison in Yellowstone has been nearly as successful. A population of millions in the US had dwindled to roughly 50 animals in the park in the early 1900’s, there are now more than 3,000 of the giant ungulates roaming the park. These enormous creatures, weighing up to nearly one tone, can be quite dangerous due to their defensiveness and speed (sprinting up to 30 mph). The top injury in the park is tourists getting stampeded after being fooled by their seemingly docile behavior.

Grand Teton National Park

Heading south from the park, we spent a couple of nights at the Grand Teton National Park, which makes up in extraordinary beauty what it lacks in charismatic wildlife. There’s no better way to start a day than to watch the sun lighting up the soaring Teton peaks over Jackson Lake. Karina and I found the view from a kayak on Jenny lake is even better, though looking up at the steep mountains can be a hazard to your neck. 

To wrap up our wildlife tour, we stopped in on a bird research project managed by the Teton Science School’s Conservation Research Program. We piled into our car, my daughter and my sister’s family cramming into our Subaru for another early morning. Just south of the town of Jackson, we wound down a rural road, stopping at a private housing development.

There, we met up with Jennifer McCabe (left), an ornithologist who has been studying the area’s songbirds with the School since 2007. She took us on a tour of a beautiful property that the school manages, where songbirds are caught in nets to band and study before being released. The team catches as many as 60 species during a summer which includes thousand of individuals at 5 local sites.

On the third net we visited, Jennifer found a bird in one of their nets. She carefully untangled the bird and gently carried it to the research area, where assistants were waiting to collect information including the birds weight and putting a small metal band on its leg. She showed the kids the different parts of the bird’s anatomy up close before letting it fly off back to the forest.

The research on these birds is part of a larger program that is looking at migration patterns of songbirds across North America, among other things looking to determine if climate change is impacting behavior. As towns like Jackson expand and ranches become housing developments in the West, knowing how this development will impact migratory songbirds is critical information.

Research and restoration are two of the most important ways to help bring back wildlife from the brink. Despite the crowds and traffic of Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons, it’s heartening to see the results of years of hard work in the abundant wildlife of the region.

5 Wildlife Vacations That Don't Skimp on Luxury

Viewing wildlife and assisting conservation efforts does not have to come at the expense of comfort. On the luxury vacations offered on SEEtheWILD.org, you can enjoy exemplary tours, stunning destinations, and comfortable accommodations – all while making a difference for wildlife. You will also enjoy opportunities to view endangered species and learn about these incredible animals.

Feel good about where your accommodations and services come from: we work with responsible tour operators, lodges and other businesses in order to strengthen local economies and emphasize the importance of preserving wildlife to local communities. In a more tangible way, you will also be contributing to conservation: five percent of proceeds from all SEEtheWILD trips go directly to wildlife conservation efforts in the area in which you travel at no extra cost.

The following five trips are our most popular luxury tours; you can also browse our full selection of luxury tours on our website.

(Maple Leaf Adventures)

Alaska by Sail: Aboard the schooner Maple Leaf, you will explore Alaska’s rugged coast, with opportunities to view Steller sea lions, humpback whales, otters, and more. Along the way, you will hike, kayak and enjoy a soak in natural hot springs. Each evening, you will retire into the comfortable quarters of the ship and enjoy gourmet meals featuring local wild edibles. Read a first-hand account of this trip in WildHope eMagazine. These trips last 12 or more days and start at $5,870 per person.

      

(Natural Habitat Adventures)

Great African Primate Expedition: Delve into the jungle of Uganda with Natural Habitat Adventures in search of mountain gorillas, chimpanzees, and other wildlife. Accompanied by expert naturalist guides, you will tour world-famous parks such as Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, known for its high concentration of gorillas. The trip is not all about wildlife, though; you will also get a glimpse of local culture as you visit villages and farms. This once-in-a-lifetime trip starts at $8,495 per person for a 10 day adventure.

      

(Natural Habitat Adventures)

Natural Jewels of Bhutan and Nepal: This Natural Habitat Adventures expedition takes you into the heart of two magical Himalayan countries. On your journey, you will explore cultural landmarks such as monasteries and palaces, stunning mountain landscapes, and several national parks. You will enjoy myriad opportunities to view and photograph tigers, elephants, rhinos, and other wildlife in these reserves. The 13 day trip starts at $7,895 per person.

(Reefs to Rockies)

Tanzania: The Great Migration: Visit some of the world’s best wildlife hotspots on a sustainable safari with Reefs to Rockies. Accompanied by naturalist guides, you will explore Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater in the search for elephants, lions, zebras, wildebeest and more. Options abound for the active traveler, including walking safaris, game drives, horseback riding, and cultural activities. This 9 day safari starts at $5,460 per person.

(Wildland Adventures)

Untamed Borneo: Lounging in luxurious ecolodges by night and exploring wildlife hotspots by day, you will enjoy all this stunning island has to offer on this Wildland Adventures expedition. You will move from rainforest to coast as you seek out orangutans, sun bears, monkeys, elephants, and more. Opportunities to tour research stations and talk with wildlife biologists will round out this exhilarating educational experience. This 11 day excursion starts at $5,150 per person.

No matter if you want to explore Asian jungles or icy Alaskan shorelines, there are myriad opportunities to travel to wildlife hotspots in style. From classic schooners with well-equipped quarters, to ecolodges over reefs in Borneo, you will enjoy luxurious accommodations – and make a difference at the same time. Not a bad deal, if you ask me!

Guanahacabibes: Cuba’s Little Visited All-Inclusive National Park

Our group of marine biologists transferred from boat to van in the coastal town of La Coloma for the short ride to Pinar del Rio, the largest city in the province with the same name. The “stuck in time” feeling one gets traveling through Cuba was especially strong here, as we passed actual milkmen delivering their dairy canisters in horse-drawn wagons. Entering the city, the skyline was dominated by a large, stark, gray apartment building that seemed transplanted from Moscow.

We were headed to Guanahacabibes National Park, which covers the far western end of the island, for a workshop on Cuba’s sea turtles, invited by our partners at Cuba Marine Research and Conservation. As we waited for our colleagues coming from Havana to meet us, we passed the time with Cuban beers and music in a hotel bar. Once on the bus, we passed through charming towns with every house fronted by columns as well as empty fields waiting for the next tobacco crop to be planted.

Eventually the fields gave way to forests as we entered the park. Large iguanas lined the road as we wound down to the coast. We stopped for pictures at a lighthouse that marks the westernmost point of the island, just 100 miles or so from Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. The island and the peninsula are intimately linked, by migratory ocean animals like sea turtles, as well as topography, with its limestone rock foundation. The exposed limestone is so rugged that Cubans call it “diente de perro” or dog’s teeth.   

The park is home to one of Cuba’s most important green turtle nesting beaches. This season was the most successful period for nests that our partners with the Center for Marine Research at the University of Havana have ever had, with nearly 900 nests, nearly double their previous high. Our Billion Baby Turtles project recently supported this work, providing enough funding to save roughly 14,000 hatchlings, putting us over 100,000 hatchlings saved for the year. This visit was our first opportunity to see the hatchlings that we have helped to save and our partners didn’t disappoint.

Green turtle hatchling from Guanahacabibes

Spreading out among dozens of nests that were nearing maturation, our partners found one ready to go. Dozens of green turtle hatchlings made their way over the sand to the clear blue waters while our group watched in awe. This beach is the most important nesting beach on Cuba’s main island and second most important overall though funding has been hard to come by to adequately monitor the several beaches in the park where turtles nest.

The next day was an intensive course on the sea turtles of Cuba. Researchers from local projects spoke of the history of Cuba turtle conservation (complete with a photo of Fidel and a turtle). International turtle experts (including yours truly) presented on how the country can develop tourism that benefits conservation efforts and local communities while avoiding the negative impacts that the industry has had in many places especially in the Caribbean.

That evening, at the Villa Maria la Gorda, the group bonded over Cuba’s favorite pastimes, music and rum, at the oceanside bar. The hotel’s odd name (translation: Fat Mary’s) comes from Guanahacabibes’ legendary patron who supposedly watched over pirates that formerly inhabited the area. The latest of a string of extraordinary sunsets over the water provided the backdrop to the music and conversation.

Guanahacabibes is known as a world-class diving site but generally is left off the itineraries of people coming to visit this Caribbean island. The water drops off quickly from shore, to over a thousand meters providing a number of dramatic options for experienced divers. The terrestrial part of the park also has its attractions. One day a few of us took a guided tour to the Pearl Cave, an impressive collection of underground halls and rooms carved out by rain.

Part of the reason for my visit was to explore the possibility of working with Cuba Marine Research and Conservation to promote sea turtle-based tourism to this park that benefits conservation efforts. The incredible beaches, spectacular reefs, and extraordinary sunsets make this park an ideal location and we hope to be offering trips as soon as 2014.

On our last day at the park, I hopped into the water with Fernando from CMRC, for a quick snorkel around the resort’s dock. An incredible amount of fish was sheltering in the dock’s shade as we swam through the crystal clear waters. Hopefully it won’t be long before we can share this Cuban jewel with conservation travelers!

Stars Over the Amazon: Earthwatch’s Amazon Riverboat Expedition

By SEEtheWILD traveler Judy Bradshaw

In August 2013 I flew to Iquitos, Peru to meet a group of volunteers participating in a project to study biodiversity in the Amazon Rainforest in northern Peru for fifteen days. The project was headed by Dr. Richard Bodmer, a conservation biologist, who worked at the University of Kent in England. Dr. Bodmer has been doing studies in the Amazon since 1984 with a slew of Peruvian biologists and others who were interested in rainforest ecology, especially related to climate change.

We were there to act as inexpert hands while we lived on a boat and chose various activities supervised by the biologists. We lived for the week on the Ayapua, a refurbished boat built in 1906 during the rubber boom which had been used to transport rubber out of the area.  It fell into disuse as other materials and other countries became more profitable to use in the rubber trade. 

We were very fortunate to be on this last voyage of the Ayapua which was to be converted into a maritime museum to be docked in Iquitos. Our group was small, only seven of us, so we each had our own room. There were three single American women (from Denver, Houston, Portland), a Scottish couple, and a woman and man from Australia who did not come together.           

After meeting in Iquitos and staying at the Casa Morey Hotel, our group of 7 from around the world took a bus about two hours upstream where we boarded the Ayapua and then cruised another day and a half upstream on the Marañon  River, a tributary of the Amazon.  We eventually anchored at the mouth of the Samiria River where it flowed into the Marañon. This is an area very rich in wildlife and especially plentiful in fish that attracted much of the wildlife. There were several Cocama Indian villages in the area. We anchored there for about a week and then traveled a short distance upstream and anchored for another week.

Our living quarters were comfortable, the food was good (wonderful fish), and the staff was competent and kind. There was even a nurse on board who tended to a few of us with our colds and various other ailments. We had air conditioning in our rooms and in the dining room. The generator was turned off at 11 pm and back on at 6 am.  The jungle was hot, humid, buggy, and we covered up and wore headnets if we were doing any of the land transects. We used very strong insect repellant which seemed to help. Maybe.

Our daily activities looked like this:

• 5:30/6:30 am – 9 am:  Macaws or water birds which involved counting birds using a GPS unit while traveling in a motorized canoe.
• 7 am-noon:  Terrestrial transect in which we took a boat to an area and slowly walked in 1.5 km (about a mile) and then back out, while observing and counting terrestrial animals (mainly monkeys, some birds).
• 9:30 am – noon:  Fish survey which involved going setting up a 50m net for one hour and using rods to fish. The fish were gathered, placed in buckets of water, identified, weighed and measured, and then released. 
• 2-4 pm:  Frog transect which involved walking on land and turning over leaf litter with sticks and watching tiny frogs hop up. These were identified, weighed and measured and then released by the frog biologists.
• 3-5 pm:  Dolphin survey in a motorized boat, counting the gray and pink river dolphins. The gray dolphins liked to leap in the air; the pink dolphins didn’t.
• 4-6 pm:  Macaw and water bird survey, depending on the one that we didn’t do in the morning.

In the evenings, we had a Happy Hour, dinner, and then met to discuss the day’s results. There was also an option to participate in night projects which involved going out in a boat and counting caiman or water frogs using a giant spotlight to see them. 

So…what did we volunteers do? We did what they told us to do.  We recorded, counted, observed, and entered the data in the computer in the library when we returned to the Ayapua. We talked to each other and the biologists and looked at the incredible surroundings and wildlife and fell into bed exhausted every night.  Mostly we worked.  At the end of the trip, Richard complimented us on being such a hard-working group.

Highlights of the trip:

The neotropical cormorants were migrating through from July though September.  No one knows where they come from or where they go.  One morning, on a 12 km. boat ride, we counted twenty-two thousand of them roosting in trees.  Yep.

The gray river dolphins hunt in pods and drive the schools of fish into the shore and then move in a feeding frenzy. The fish explode into the air…silver in the sun with the dolphins below churning the water, leaping and gulping. We also saw a pair of giant river otters and their two babies…the first that have been seen in the area in years. The ban on hunting them is working. Richard was ecstatic.

   

We participated in the anniversary celebration of the founding of Bolivar village fifty-one years before. Twenty-six families lived there.  We watched soccer games and drank a fermented manioc drink from shells and had simple conversations with the Cocama Indians who were kind to us and didn’t treat us like anything special, a relief after the many other tours I have taken We later returned to the village and gave the children school supplies we had brought for them.  It was wonderful sitting with them, being just one of the troop in the Amazon rainforest.

Doing the early morning bird counts, in the quiet dawn.  There is nothing like Dawn on the Amazon with the mist rising over the water, the pink sky and the howler monkeys howling.  In the afternoon there is nothing like Afternoon on the Amazon with the heat and bugs.  In the evening there is nothing like Dusk on the Amazon as the heat breaks and the sun disappears.  In the night when standing on the deck looking up, there is nothing like the stars over the Amazon.  Nothing.