Light, Motion, Mind, and Ocean

What is it about the way the ocean moves, reflects, glimmers and glows that mesmerizes and transfixes us and is so difficult to capture, put in a box, and share?

Earlier this summer I gathered a group of leading neuroscientists, ocean explorers, advocates, communicators and creative people together in a room at the California Academy of Sciences to begin to answer this question, and many others. We called the amalgamation of thinkers BLUEMIND and set out to explore the science of the relationship between the human brain and the ocean.

Among the topics explored were all of the senses relative to the sea, why the ocean is sexy, why we prefer "ocean views" to the tune of trillions of dollars and how addiction can both be a force for ocean destruction and restoration. Providing a glimmer of hope and delivering the closing keynote was Dr. Michael Merzenich, a pioneer in the field of neural plasticity, who described the brain's fantastic capacity for change.

A couple of months have passed since the the summit, ample time to reflect and respond. In that time I've been to Indonesia, Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Guatemala. And my daughter and I took a slow walk along twelve miles of our most local ocean, from Pescadero to Año Nuevo, California.

After all that intellectual stimulation and travel I keep coming back to the special quality of the light that passes through and/or reflects off of the ocean before it passes through my eyes. There's something unique about what it does in there--the impulses and images it sends to my visual cortex are some of my favorites. I really miss them when I don't have them--there's no substitute on land or screen. And I'm already making the next plan to return, even before the expedition at hand is over.

Like many others, I have pointed my cameras at that light over and over again. All over the planet. On top of the ocean, under the ocean and along the ocean. Better photographers and videographers than I have produced visual masterpieces telling important stories about our blue planet when their lenses have been artfully employed to capture the magical light and motion of the sea.

And still the four by six foot whale portraits, the million dollar feature ocean films, the latest surf flick and the short videos made on my iPhone of my daughter along the SLOWCOAST are poor substitutes for the real thing. They just don't take us there like the light of the roiling sea does.

Yet, we will always try to capture the light and the motion--try to put the ocean in a box--so we can share those inspiring moments with other minds. As futile as it may be, even with gigapixels, seven story high screens and latest underwater housings

I know I'll keep returning to the ocean with my lights, camera and wetsuit to make more memories. And I'll always keep trying, and failing, to bring home that special light in a box.

-Wallace J. Nichols

5 Things to Consider Before Choosing a Wildlife Conservation Vacation

(Note: this post was originally written for World Nomads Responsible Traveler Blog)

Ecotourism, green travel, sustainable tourism, call it what you will. Whatever its title, reducing the negative impacts of travel is one of the fastest growing parts of the tourism market and one that has the potential to significantly reduce carbon emissions, support low-income communities, and benefit efforts to protect endangered animals.

Unfortunately, so far, the impact of travel (whether good or bad) on wildlife has been an afterthought for most travelers. Tourism and the infrastructure it requires can destroy wildlife habitat, worsen climate change, result in litter and other pollution, and increase stress on wild animals. When done carefully, however, what we call “wildlife conservation travel” can also help wildlife in several ways, including generating funds for local conservation groups and providing volunteer help. Perhaps the biggest way that conservation travel can help endangered animals is by creating economic benefits for local residents who otherwise would earn a living by fishing, hunting, or other activities that harm animals.

As you plan your next vacation, here are some things to think about before you decide where to go and what activities to do.

1. Is the destination a wildlife hotspot?

According to Conservation International, about half of the world’s species live in “biodiversity hotspots” which take up less than 5 percent of the world’s land. If you go to one of these spots, read up on which animals live there and look for opportunities to visit research and conservation programs. Some of these programs may offer short-term volunteer programs where you will get an experience that few travelers get to participate with. Many of these programs work through tour operators that offer these experiences while taking care of your transport, food, and accommodations.

2. Does Your Tour Operator Support Conservation and Local Communities?

If you decide to travel through a tour operator, do your research to make sure they actively support environmental and social projects in the places they go. Some operators will offer discounts for travelers who donate to funds that they set up to support these community groups, a great example is the Travelers Conservation Trust set up by Wildland Adventures. Most of the operators who truly support these programs will be transparent about who they donate to.

If you don’t see that information, make sure you ask the operator what they do to support wildlife conservation. After all, if their business is based on travelers going to Africa to see lions or India to see tigers, shouldn’t they want to make sure those animals will always be around? If they can’t answer that question, let them know that you’ll be looking elsewhere; there’s no better way to motivate a company to improve their practices.

3. Does Your Operator Go Beyond Donations?

Giving money is one of the easier ways to support wildlife. Other questions to ask operators are if they support environmental protection and residents in ways other than donations. Do they offer volunteer programs? Employ people from nearby communities and use locally-owned hotels and restaurants? Do they advocate for wildlife protection or participate in efforts to improve tourism practices? One of the best examples of going beyond donations is Canada’s Maple Leaf Adventures. In addition to donations, their founder Kevin Smith has been a leader in setting tourism standards for the Haida Gwaii Islands and promoting bear watching over bear hunting in British Columbia.

4. Do Your Vacation Plans Include Activities That Could Harm Wildlife?

Now that you know the animals that live where you are going and how much your operator supports them, the next thing to think about is if the activities you do and places you stay might impact local wildlife. Are you staying in a high-rise chain hotel on a turtle nesting beach? If so, you might want to look for a locally-owned cabin away from where the turtles come. If you plan to use jet-ski’s or boats, make sure to stay away from habitat for manatees and other animals, drive slowly, and obey all regulations. Check out our Turtle Watching Guide for ways to prevent impacts to turtles on nesting beaches and at sea. The Coral Reef Alliance also has several guides for travelers.

5. Stay Off the Beaten Path

Many of the most popular places to see wildlife become overrun with tourists, encouraging uncontrolled development which impacts wildlife habitat. However, by doing a little research, you can usually find other places to see that animal that don’t get nearly so much traffic. There are dozens of turtle nesting beaches in Costa Rica, yet the vast majority go to Tortuguero National Park. Instead of following the crowds to see lions in Kenya, think about places like Mozambique or Namibia’s Communal Conservancies for your next African safari.

5 Wild Animals You Can Protect On Your Next Vacation

(Note - this post was originally written for and posted on the World Nomad's Responsible Travel Blog)

It seems that every day another news article comes out about animals facing extinction. The list of reasons is seemingly endless including loss of habitat, the wildlife trade, and climate change. What the media rarely covers is the stories of hope, where communities come together to protect the animals that live around them.

There are many of these stories around the world, where dedicated conservationists are coming up with innovative ways to help these endangered species recover while improving the lives of local residents. Many of these programs include volunteer activities for travelers to participate in research and conservation programs.

Here are just a few of the opportunities for travelers to help wildlife:

• Green Sea Turtles in Baja: Years ago, many turtle researchers wrote off Baja’s turtles as beyond saving. However, an award-winning network of fishermen, scientists, and local residents called the Grupo Tortuguero formed to study and protect the region’s five species of sea turtles and numbers are rebounding. A new locally run business called RED Sustainable Tourism is helping these conservationists recruit volunteer help for their turtle research. Participants camp on a small island in Magdalena Bay and help to set nets to catch green turtles at sea and collect information on them before returning them to the water.

• Lions in Mozambique: These iconic cats are facing increasing threats and their numbers have decreased an estimated 30 percent over the past two decades. Gorongosa National Park in Mozambique is a microcosm of efforts in Africa to protect lions and other wildlife. At one point, this park is said to have had more wildlife than the Serengeti and was one of the continent’s most visited protected areas. In the 90’s, civil strife led to an estimated 95 reduction in large animals. Now that the political situation is resolved, a huge effort is underway to restore the park and revive ecotourism here. Colorado-based Reefs to Rockies is working with Explore Gorongosa to organize a “Bio-Blitz” where volunteers can help researchers on a comprehensive survey of the parks flora and fauna.

• Giant Pandas in China: Pandas live in isolated patches of mountain forest in central China. Their numbers in the wild have dwindled to less than 2,500 due to conversion of forest to farmland and other uses. The World Wildlife Fund’s China program is working to expand protected areas and encourage local residents to protect their forests. Travelers with Wild China can track pandas in the Wanglang Nature Reserve, visit a panda breeding center, and support WWF’s efforts to train local residents as tour guides.

• Penguins in South Africa: More than half of the 18 species of penguins around the world are considered either threatened or endangered. The African penguin population has decreased 95 percent since preindustrial times due to competition for fish with fishermen and other threats. Earthwatch Institute has worked with local researchers for the past decade to study and protect the penguins living on Robben Island, famous for the prison that once held Nelson Mandela and many others during apartheid. Volunteers will help collect data on the penguins including growth rates of chicks and survival rates, key information that is needed to develop long-term protection plans.

• Whale Sharks in the Sea of Cortez: The whale shark, despite being the world’s largest fish, is not well studied by scientists. Their numbers are decreasing due primarily to the trade in their fins. Though they can be found around the world, one of their primary feeding areas is the Sea of Cortez between mainland Mexico and the Baja Peninsula. Baja Expeditions, the first tour operator to bring people to this ocean paradise, has recently begun working with a local researcher to start filling in the gaps in our knowledge of these amazing creatures. Based on board a dive ship, volunteers will spend a week cruising the Sea of Cortez, diving with whale sharks to collect DNA samples, take photographic IDs, and observing their behavior.

Search all of our wildlife volunteer vacations here.

Confessions of A Sea Turtle Volunteer

(Note - this post was originally written for and posted on the World Nomad's Responsible Travel Blog)

I wasn’t always a sea turtle fanatic. I didn’t grow up with a pet turtle, snorkel with green turtles in Hawaii, or even watch the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. I had a pretty boring suburban US childhood without a lot of interaction with nature. (Don’t tell any of my colleagues, but I didn’t know the first thing about turtles when I first went to work with them.)

The first time I saw a leatherback turtle, I nearly fainted. Expecting a normal sized turtle with a hard shell, watching a dinosaur weighing close to 1,000 pounds dragging itself out of the water was a wake up call to me. Since then, I have become a bit of an turtle evangelist and have helped hundreds of people visit turtle nesting beaches to volunteer or just watch this amazing creature.

At first I painted a beautiful picture for prospective volunteers (moonlight strolls on the beach, giant turtles laying eggs, daytime free to lounge). We quickly found that to attract people not quite prepared for the experience. I now start with the bad stuff (bugs, rain, little sleep, long walks in soft sand) and let people know that if they can put up with that, it can be the most amazing experience of your life.

Volunteering with a sea turtle conservation project is very rewarding with benefits including personal satisfaction, resume material, lots of exercise, new friends from around the world, and great stories to tell. It should not be taken lightly though; it is hard work and the local organizations that run the turtle programs expect volunteers to fulfill their obligations.

Generally the projects require at least a week’s stay and will take people for up to 3 months. The organizations that we work with require volunteers to pay for food and lodging (their budgets are not big enough to cover those expenses) which ranges from $25 to more than $100 per day. For people who can commit to at least two months and have biology degrees or field experience, some projects offer research assistant positions at no daily cost.

What should a volunteer expect when going to volunteer on one of these projects?

First, the work is generally at night when the turtles come ashore. Most projects require volunteers to wear dark clothing and avoid using lights (including cameras) to avoid disturbing the turtles. On many beaches, volunteers work one of two four-hour shifts (8 to midnight or midnight to 4 am), walking up and down the beach with local researchers and other volunteers.

When a nesting turtle is spotted, the lead researcher will keep the group back until the turtle has started to dig the nest. At this time, the turtle goes into a trance-like state where they are so focused on digging and laying eggs that they have little sense of what is going on around them. If the beach has a hatchery (where eggs are protected from poachers or other animals), the eggs will be collected in a bag put into the nest. Most projects then collect data on the turtle including the species, length and width of the shell, distinguishing marks, and where on the beach it nests. Researchers will then put a tag on the turtle (either a metal tag on a flipper or a microchip injected into the shoulder). Other work at turtle projects include working in the hatchery (checking to see if hatchlings arrive), cleaning the beach of debris, or maintaining the research center. Learn more about volunteer activities here.

So what should an eager turtle lover think about before deciding whether to volunteer and where to go?

First, think hard about how much discomfort you can put up with. If you can’t stand mosquitoes and rain and won’t survive if you can’t check your email or phone, its probably not the right experience for you. If you have health issues that walking long distances can worsen, you may want to look for something else.

Second, think about what is most important to you, the scientific aspect or the conservation and cultural aspects. Some projects have strong research programs and nicer facilities but may offer less interaction with local residents and receive large numbers of volunteers. Smaller community-based turtle projects may not have as strong of a research program or facilities but need help more than other projects and can offer homestays with local families. More established programs tend to be more expensive as well. Also, do you want to be near a town where you can hang out on off days or an isolated beach far from civilization?

I often get asked, “Really how much does volunteering help the turtles?” My response is always, “A lot!” Unlike some volunteer programs that are set up more for the volunteer than the local organizations, turtle projects need lots of help walking long stretches of beaches for hours each evening. In addition, the income from volunteer programs generates a large portion of the budget of some of these projects; they wouldn’t have the funds to continue without them.

Perhaps most importantly, volunteers coming to these communities

to spend their time and money helps to convince local residents that the turtles are more valuable alive than dead. I’ve seen first-hand the change that can take place in a town once volunteers start arriving. That may be the most satisfying part of the whole experience, bonding with people of different backgrounds over the hard work of bringing endangered species back from the brink.

People Helping Turtles, Turtles Helping People

(Note: This is an excerpted guest post from Jesse Senko of the Blue Ocean Institute. It originally appeared on the BOI Blog here.)

On the Pacific coast of Mexico, all five species of sea turtles (green, hawksbill, loggerhead, olive ridley and leatherback) have declined over the past century due to illegal poaching and incidental capture in fishing nets. One of the most heavily impacted areas has been the Bahia Magdalena region, where endangered sea turtle populations remain low despite progressive conservation measures that include complete legal protection for sea turtles and their major nesting beaches.

In order to evaluate alternative sea turtle conservation strategies that rely on increased participation of local residents, a team of researchers led by (SEE Turtles co-founder) Dr. Wallace J. Nichols and myself interviewed 136 people from seven coastal fishing communities in the Bahia Magdalena region. “If we want to save sea turtles we need to find novel ways to include local residents in conservation efforts, and basically that comes down to finding out how a live sea turtle can become worth more than a dead one, be that financially, emotionally, or intrinsically…but most likely some type of combination”, said Senko, the study’s lead author. “The human-sea turtle relationship is wonderfully complex. No surprise, so are the ways to restore sea turtles. Restoring what’s broken in nature requires biodiversity, economic and cultural diversity, but also emotional diversity”, noted Nichols, a marine biologist who also founded the grassroots sea turtle conservation organization Grupo Tortuguero.

The researchers found that although residents were overwhelmingly interested in participating in sea turtle conservation, peer pressure and conflict within their community often presented challenges. “It can be difficult to fully embrace sea turtle conservation when some of your friends, family, and community members may still be eating, hunting, or even selling these animals on black market circuits, especially if you are not directly benefiting from the conservation efforts in some capacity”, added Senko.

The development of sea turtle ecotourism may help protect sea turtles and provide additional revenue for fishers who previously hunted them or accidentally captured them in their fishing nets. When asked about the prospects of sea turtle ecotourism, most residents indicated that this would have a positive impact on their community. Economic incentives and increased protection for sea turtles were mentioned as benefits of sea turtle ecotourism, whereas peer pressure, difficulty obtaining permits and producing effective marketing materials, and doubts about direct economic benefits were cited as constraints. Whale watching guides were especially interested in developing sea turtle ecotourism programs, in large part because they already possess the necessary equipment (e.g. boats, GPS devices) and knowledge of sea turtle life history, movements, and abundance. “Researchers have relied on turtle hunters, fishers, and local whale watching guides to find and study sea turtles since I first arrived in Baja as a doctoral student in the early 1990s. Sea turtle research and conservation in Baja has been all about artful collaboration and mutual benefits from day one”, said Nichols.

Recently, Nichols and Brad Nahill started a non-profit sea turtle conservation travel program called SEE Turtles that relied upon some of the findings and recommendations from this study. SEE Turtles works to provide ways for visitors to work hands-on in the field with fishers and marine conservation biologists to capture sea turtles and collect/record scientific data on these endangered animals. Although the researchers acknowledge that initially sea turtle conservation jobs are likely to be supplemental, the added income from SEE Turtles has already aided local communities and sea turtle protection efforts.

“Conservation travel endeavors that generate even a modest amount of part time jobs is a great first step in developing and promoting positive attitudes towards sea turtle and marine conservation efforts”, said Senko. “If people know of others who work with sea turtle conservation efforts they may develop pro-environmental attitudes towards sea turtle conservation even if they themselves do not directly benefit from the endeavor…and we’ve already seen this from gray whales in Baja, so why not sea turtles, they are here year-round.”

The other authors in the study include current School for Field Studies/Center for Coastal Studies professor Andrew J. Schneller, Francisco “Paco” Ollervides, former Center for Coastal Studies director and current Waterkeeper Alliance research associate, and Julio Solis, Bahia Magdalena Baykeeper, Latin America Regional Representative for the Waterkeeper Alliance, and distinguished Grupo Tortuguero sea turtle biologist. The full study is published in the journal “Ocean and Coastal Management” (Email the author below for a copy).

Blog written by Jesse Senko, Blue Ocean Institute’s seafood consultant: jesse.senko@gmail.com

Why You Should Take Your Kids Turtle Watching

(Note: this post was originally written for the Green Loons Blog)

10. Sea turtles don’t bite (and if they try, they are easy to get away from).

9. They are easy to spot since we know when and where they are nesting in places like Baja Mexico, Costa Rica, and the Southeastern U.S.).

8. Sea turtles are endangered and visiting their nesting beaches can help to protect them by providing income to conservation groups local communities.

7. Watching turtle hatchlings scurry to the water is better than any cartoon, video game, or nature show.

6. The beach where turtles lay their eggs are warm and most have great waves for body surfing and nearby places to snorkel.

5. Giant leatherback turtles are Earth’s last living dinosaur more than 6 feet long and up to 1,000 pounds or more!

4. A few turtle nesting beaches in Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Mexico, and India have “arribadas” where thousands of olive ridley turtles nest at one time. Imagine that photo!

3. For older kids (16+), some turtle projects offer families the opportunity to play marine biologist and volunteer for several nights helping collect information and protect the eggs.

2. In places where turtles are well protected like Hawaii, you can swim near green turtles and watch how graceful they are in the water. (Remember not to touch them!)

1. Your kids can watch a turtle laying its eggs at night (without lights) and not bother the turtle (they go into a trance while laying).

Good News for Lions

While passing through DC on my current business trip, I had a day full of news and opportunities to participate in lion conservation. With lions in such a dire situation (some researchers say their numbers have dropped 30 percent over the past two decades to fewer than 30,000), many organizations are stepping up their efforts to protect these iconic animals.

In the morning I met John Kaseona who works with IRDNC, a Namibian wildlife organization that works with local communities to develop ways to protect endangered animals in ways that benefit residents. Namibia passed a forward-thinking law in the 90’s that gave tribes full control over tourism on their communal lands. These communal conservancies now protect growing populations of lions where their numbers are dropping in most places.

John heads soon to Denver, where he will be presenting on March 7th in partnership with Reefs to Rockies. If you are around Denver, go and check out what is sure to be a fascinating presentation. SEEtheWILD is proud that Reefs to Rockies tour, Nambia & Botswana’s Desert & Delta, works closely with these conservancies and benefits the Desert Lion Project that IRDNC and others work with. We’re hoping to work more with John and his partners as SEEtheWILD grows.

That evening, I attended a cocktail party about lion conservation at the headquarters of National Geographic. Their new Big Cats Initiative is an exciting new way that people can learn about and support the conservation of lions, tigers, and other big cats. They recently released a fascinating movie called The Last Lions, be sure to go see it if its playing near you. At the party, people from IFAW (the International Fund for Animal Welfare), the Humane Society, and Born Free announced that they had just filed a petition to list lions as endangered species in the US. Hundreds of lions are imported into the US from hunting safaris. Their parts can be bought for thousands of dollars, fueling a trade that threatens these animals in the wild. Tigers and other animals outside of the US receive this protection, which would prevent the importing of these parts.

I also had the pleasure of meeting with staff of the African Wildlife Foundation. We look forward to supporting their Conservation Enterprise program to help support community-based wildlife conservation efforts through our trips. AWF is the primary partner with Disney for their upcoming movie African Cats, which comes out on Earth Day, April 22nd. If you go see the movie during the first week, Disney will donate 20 cents per person to AWF for their lion conservation work (a donation of at least $100,000).